Abstract
Despite the increasing attention of Global Value Chain (GVC) scholars towards multi-stakeholder initiatives (MSIs) for social sustainability, international buyers such as apparel retailers (buyers) keep being referred to as ‘lead’ change agents. In this chapter, I problematize this inherent notion of buyers’ change agency in GVC literature, arguing for the need to understand more deeply the contribution of developing countries’ manufacturers to MSIs and their ability to advance the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) from upstream. I do so by conveying a powerful analysis of DBL Group (DBL), one of the most socially proactive manufacturers operating in the Bangladeshi apparel supply chain. By drawing closely on DBL’s approach in articulating its People programmes for social sustainability, this chapter helps conceptualize a three-step governance process based on: (1) learning, (2) integrating and (3) scaling. This process informs how developing countries’ manufacturers can participate with MSIs to lead and diffuse social sustainability programmes in the chain, ultimately helping achieve the SDGs. The chapter concludes with a main discussion on the implications of buyers’ change agency assumed in GVC literature. In so doing, it conveys five distinct takeaways of theoretical and practical import.